How to Feed Bees: Sugar Syrup, Fondant, and Pollen Guide

In a perfect world, bees wouldn't need us to feed them. But new colonies, weak hives, nectar dearths, and unexpected circumstances make supplemental feeding an essential beekeeping skill. This guide covers when feeding is necessary, what to feed, how to make it, and which feeder type works best for each situation.

When to Feed Bees

Feeding isn't something you should do routinely—it's intervention for specific situations. Over-feeding can cause problems like excess moisture in the hive, robbing behavior, and dependency. Here's when feeding makes sense:

1. New Package or Nuc Installation

New colonies have no stored resources. Feed 1:1 sugar syrup continuously until they've drawn out at least one full brood box of comb (typically 3-6 weeks). This gives them the energy to build wax and establish themselves.

2. Spring Buildup

If hives emerge from winter light on stores, feeding 1:1 syrup in early spring helps the colony grow faster. This is especially helpful if you want strong hives for a spring nectar flow or to prevent starvation before natural forage becomes available.

Stop feeding once natural nectar is coming in or you've added honey supers. You don't want sugar syrup mixed into your honey harvest.

3. Nectar Dearth

Summer "dearths" occur when few plants are blooming—common in hot, dry areas during July-August. If your hive is light and bees seem hungry (hanging around feeders, robbing other hives), provide 1:1 syrup to prevent starvation and keep the queen laying.

4. Fall Preparation

If your hive doesn't have enough stores for winter (60-90 lbs depending on climate), feed heavy 2:1 syrup in early fall. Bees need time to process and cap the syrup before cold weather arrives. Stop feeding when temperatures consistently stay below 50°F (10°C)—bees won't take syrup in cold weather.

See our fall beekeeping guide for regional timing.

5. Emergency Winter Feeding

If a hive is starving mid-winter (light when hefted, bees clustering near the top), provide fondant or dry sugar. Liquid syrup won't work—it's too cold for bees to process, and the moisture is harmful in a winter cluster.

Sugar Syrup Recipes & Ratios

Sugar syrup is the most common supplemental feed. Use plain white granulated sugar—nothing else. Brown sugar, raw sugar, powdered sugar (with cornstarch), and organic sugar contain impurities that can cause bee dysentery.

1:1 Syrup (Spring/Stimulative Feeding)

This thin syrup mimics nectar and stimulates the queen to lay more eggs. Bees also use it for comb building. Use in spring or when you want to stimulate colony growth.

2:1 Syrup (Fall/Winter Stores)

This thick syrup is easier for bees to convert to stored honey. Use in late summer/fall when building winter stores. The lower moisture content means less work for bees to cure it.

How to Make Sugar Syrup

1. 1. Heat water – Don't boil (creates hydroxymethylfurfural or HMF, which is toxic to bees). Just heat until warm enough to dissolve sugar easily—about 120-140°F.
2. 2. Add sugar and stir – Pour sugar slowly while stirring. Continue until completely dissolved with no crystals remaining.
3. 3. Cool before feeding – Let syrup cool to room temperature. Hot syrup can damage plastic feeders and harm bees.
4. 4. Store properly – Use within 1-2 weeks, or refrigerate for up to a month. Fermented or moldy syrup is harmful.

Optional Additives

Most beekeepers keep it simple: sugar and water only. But some add:

• Essential oils (lemongrass, spearmint) – Some believe they have health benefits; at minimum they make syrup smell attractive
• Honey-B-Healthy – Commercial feeding stimulant with essential oils
• Apple cider vinegar – 1 tablespoon per gallon; lowers pH to discourage fermentation
• Fumagilin – Nosema treatment (requires prescription in some areas)

Don't add these unless you have a specific reason. Plain syrup works fine for most situations.

Winter Fondant (Sugar Candy)

When it's too cold for liquid syrup (below 50°F/10°C), fondant is the emergency feed of choice. It's solid, doesn't add moisture, and bees can eat it directly from the cluster.

No-Cook Fondant Recipe

The easiest method—no candy thermometer required:

Cooked Fondant Recipe

For a smoother, professional-quality fondant that bees love:

1. 1. Combine 4 parts sugar to 1 part water in a large pot
2. 2. Heat to 234°F (soft ball stage) stirring constantly
3. 3. Remove from heat and let cool to 200°F
4. 4. Beat vigorously until it turns white and thickens
5. 5. Pour into molds before it sets completely

This produces the smooth white fondant you see in stores. It requires a candy thermometer and some practice.

Store-Bought Options

If candy making isn't your thing, you can buy ready-made fondant or sugar boards. Winter Patties, Bee Fondant, and sugar boards from beekeeping suppliers work well. They cost more but save time. Browse winter bee fondant on Amazon →

Dry Sugar Methods

The simplest emergency feeding method: pour dry sugar directly onto the hive. There are several approaches:

Mountain Camp Method

Named after beekeeper Mountain Camp who popularized it:

1. Lay newspaper or parchment paper directly on top of the frames
2. Cut a small hole for bees to access from below
3. Pour 5-10 lbs of dry sugar on the paper in a mound
4. Lightly mist with water to create a crust (optional)
5. Replace inner cover and close up

Bees work their way through the sugar from the bottom. It's not pretty, but it works in emergencies.

Sugar Boards

A neater version: build a shallow rim (1-2" tall) that sits on top of the hive, fill it with damp sugar that hardens into a board. Provides pounds of emergency feed with easy access.

Pollen and Protein Feeding

Sugar provides carbohydrates, but bees also need protein from pollen to raise brood. In early spring when natural pollen is scarce, or during extended dearths, pollen supplements can boost colony growth.

When to Feed Protein

• Late winter/early spring – Before natural pollen is available, to jumpstart brood rearing
• After package installation – New colonies benefit from protein to grow faster
• Prolonged dearths – If no pollen is coming in and you want brood production to continue

Pollen Substitute vs. Real Pollen

Pollen substitutes (like Ultra Bee, MegaBee, or Global Patties) are made from soy flour, brewer's yeast, and other protein sources. They're safe, nutritious, and don't risk introducing diseases from unknown pollen sources.

Real pollen patties (mixed with actual bee pollen) are attractive to bees and highly nutritious, but can spread diseases like American Foulbrood if the pollen came from infected hives. Only use pollen from known, disease-free sources.

How to Feed Pollen Patties

Place patties directly on top of the frames, over the brood nest. Bees eat from the bottom up. Replace when depleted (usually every 1-2 weeks in spring).

Start with half a patty—bees will waste what they don't need, and excess patties attract small hive beetles. Browse pollen patties on Amazon →

Types of Feeders

There are many ways to get syrup to your bees. Each has pros and cons—choose based on your situation and preference.

Hive Top Feeders

Hive top feeders sit directly on the brood box, under the outer cover. The reservoir holds syrup with a screened access area for bees. Best for: heavy fall feeding, spring buildup, new colonies.

Entrance Feeders (Boardman Feeders)

A mason jar with small holes in the lid that sits in a holder at the hive entrance. Best for: small-scale feeding, observation, warm weather only. Avoid during robbing season.

Frame Feeders (Division Board Feeders)

Plastic or wooden reservoir shaped like a frame that hangs inside the hive. Best for: spring feeding, new packages. Add a textured surface or sticks for bees to climb on.

Bucket Feeders (Pail Feeders)

An inverted bucket or pail with small holes in the lid, placed over the inner cover's hole. Vacuum keeps syrup from dripping out. Best for: large-scale fall feeding.

Open Feeders (Community Feeders)

A tub or barrel placed away from hives that all bees can access. Works for feeding a whole apiary quickly, but has serious downsides:

• ✗ Triggers massive robbing behavior
• ✗ Strong hives get more, weak hives get none
• ✗ Attracts bees from other apiaries (spreads disease)
• ✗ Wasps, ants, and other insects compete

Most beekeepers avoid open feeding except in emergencies. If you must, place it far from hives and use floating debris (straw, twigs) to prevent drowning.

Common Feeding Mistakes

Bottom Line

Feeding is a tool, not a routine. Strong colonies in good locations rarely need supplemental feeding except for new packages and perhaps fall stores in bad years. But when your bees need help—from starvation, building up, or recovering from setbacks—knowing how to feed properly can save a colony.

The best feeding strategy is one that gets your bees through tough times without creating dependency or contaminating your honey. Keep it simple: white sugar, correct ratios, appropriate timing, and feeders that prevent robbing and drowning.

Your bees would rather forage than eat sugar syrup. The goal is to support them when nature falls short, then get out of the way when it doesn't.