Assembling Hive Frames: Glue, Nails and Jigs for Beginners

Unassembled frames are the cheapest way to fill a hive, and the only price is an afternoon. Here is the gear and the order of work that gives square, strong frames.

Wooden frames go together best with a waterproof wood glue, the small nails or staples your kit specifies, and a jig or square that holds every joint at a right angle. Glue the joints, fasten them, check that the frame is square, and let the glue cure before you add foundation or hang the frame in a box.

Building your own frames saves money and teaches you how a hive fits together. If you are still deciding what to buy, our DIY vs store-bought hive guide and the starter kit guide cover the choice.

The parts of a frame

A standard wooden frame has four pieces: a top bar with ends that rest on the box rim, two side bars and a bottom bar. Depending on the kit, the bottom bar may be one piece or two halves that hold foundation between them. The pieces are cut with notches and slots so they lock together, and your kit's instructions show which way each piece faces.

Open the kit before you buy glue or fasteners. Count the pieces, look for splits and read the instruction sheet, because makers use different joints and fastener sizes. If a piece is cracked, ask the seller for a replacement rather than building around it.

Choosing glue

A frame lives in a damp, warm box for years, so use a glue whose label says it resists moisture. Check the label for water resistance and a cure time. Do not guess from a brand name.

• Wood glue in a squeeze bottle. Easy to apply to small joints. Wipe off squeeze-out with a damp cloth before it dries.
• Thin beads. A small bead on each mating surface is enough. Too much glue squeezes out into the bee space and has to be scraped later.
• Clamping time. Follow the label. Do not hang frames with wet glue in a hive.

Glue matters because nails alone can work loose as wood swells and dries with the seasons. A thin, even bead helps a joint stay square.

Nails and staples

Most kits include or recommend small nails or staples. Use the type and size your kit's instructions name, because a fastener that is too long can split thin wood or break out the other side. Pre-drilling is rarely needed for pre-cut pieces, but check the instructions.

• Hammer and small nails. The cheapest option. Hold the piece steady and drive the nail straight.
• Stapler or brad nailer. Faster for many frames. Follow the tool's manual, wear eye protection and keep your free hand out of the line of fire. Never point a powered fastener tool at yourself or anyone else.
• Keep fasteners flush. A proud head can catch on your hive tool or scratch a neighbor frame. Our hive tool and frame grip guide covers how frames get handled.

Jigs and squares

A frame jig holds the pieces at a right angle while you glue and fasten them. Some jigs hold one frame, and others hold several at once. They keep the corners square and the top bar flat, which is the hardest part to do by eye.

You can build frames without a jig. A carpenter's square, a few clamps and a flat table do the job for a handful. Buy a jig if you are building ten frames or more, because every frame comes out the same size and the work speeds up. A frame that sits crooked in the box tends to get built on at an angle and sticks to its neighbors.

Order of work

1. Dry-fit one frame. Put the pieces together without glue to see how they lock.
2. Glue the end joints. A thin bead on each mating surface, then press together.
3. Seat the pieces. Make sure every shoulder is tight and nothing is twisted.
4. Fasten. Place nails or staples as the kit shows, one joint at a time, checking squareness as you go.
5. Wipe squeeze-out. Use a damp cloth. Dried glue in the bee space is a nuisance.
6. Square the frame. Check the corners and flatness, then set it aside to cure.
7. Add foundation after the glue has cured, following the maker's instructions.

Build a few frames in one session so each repeat comes quicker. Winter is a good time to do it, and our winter planning list shows where it fits.

Checks before the bees move in

• Corners square, with no gaps at the joints.
• Top bar flat, with no twist when you sight along it.
• Every joint tight when you pick the frame up by the top bar.
• No protruding nail heads or splinters.
• Frames of one set are the same size, so they fit the box.
• Glue fully cured before foundation goes in.

If a frame fails any check, fix it now. Once it has comb and bees on it, repair is much harder. Beginners often skip the squareness check, which is why a few frames in a new hive are crooked. See the equipment checklist for everything else you need before installing bees.

Frequently Asked Questions

What glue should I use on hive frames?

Use a wood glue whose label says it resists moisture. Check the label for water resistance and cure time, and wipe off squeeze-out before it dries.

Do I need nails if I use glue?

Most kits specify both, because fasteners hold the joint while the glue cures. Follow your kit's instructions for fastener type and size.

Do I need a frame assembly jig?

Not for a handful of frames. A square, clamps and a flat table are enough, but a jig saves time and keeps frames uniform when you build many.

When should I put foundation in the frames?

After the glue has cured and you have checked the frame is square. Follow the foundation maker's instructions for fitting it.

Can I use a nail gun for frames?

Many people do, but follow the tool's manual, wear eye protection and keep your free hand clear. Check that the fastener size suits thin frame wood.