Best Hive Beetle Traps (2025)

Understanding Small Hive Beetles

Small hive beetles (Aethina tumida) are native to sub-Saharan Africa, where they're a minor pest that strong African bee colonies easily control. In North America, they're a bigger problem—especially in the warm, humid Southeast where they thrive.

Here's the lifecycle you're fighting:

1. Adult beetles fly into hives and hide in crevices
2. Females lay eggs in cracks and comb
3. Larvae hatch and tunnel through comb, eating pollen, brood, and honey
4. Larvae defecate a yeast (Kodamaea ohmeri) that ferments honey—this "slime" is what causes the real damage
5. Mature larvae exit the hive and burrow into soil to pupate
6. Adults emerge from soil 3-4 weeks later and fly to new hives

The key insight: Adult beetles are mostly a nuisance. The larvae cause the damage. A few adult beetles in a strong hive aren't a crisis—bees will chase them into corners and "jail" them there. But if beetle populations grow unchecked in a weak colony, the larvae can destroy frames in days.

Best Overall: Beetle Blaster

The Beetle Blaster is a simple plastic reservoir that hangs between frames. Fill it with vegetable oil (or mineral oil), and beetles that fall or get chased in by bees drown. The slim profile fits in the standard 3/8" bee space without disrupting comb.

Why it works:

• Beetles naturally run to dark crevices when threatened—the trap mimics that hiding spot
• Bees chase beetles toward the trap edges
• Oil is non-toxic and doesn't evaporate quickly
• Easy to check and refill during inspections

Pro tips:

• Use plain vegetable oil—canola works well and is cheap
• Place traps near the brood nest where beetle activity is highest
• Check and clean every 2-3 weeks; oil gets rancid and stops working
• 2-3 traps per hive body is typical

Downsides: Oil can spill during inspections if you're not careful. The traps get gross and need periodic replacement.

Best DIY Option: Swiffer Sheets

This sounds like a beekeeping myth, but it actually works. Dry Swiffer-style sheets have a fibrous texture that entangles beetle legs. Place a sheet on top of the frames, and beetles get stuck trying to cross it.

Critical detail: Use UNSCENTED sheets only. Scented versions may contain chemicals that bother bees.

Why it works:

• Beetle legs have spurs that catch in the fibers
• No oil to spill or refill
• Bees mostly ignore the sheets
• Easy to replace—just lift off the old one and put down a new one

Alternatives: Some beekeepers report similar success with Brawny Dine-A-Max towels (the heavy-duty restaurant napkins). The key is the fibrous texture that traps beetle legs.

Downsides: Bees can also get temporarily stuck (they usually escape). Replace sheets every 2-3 weeks as they get propolized. Less effective than oil traps for heavy infestations.

Best Bottom Board Trap: AJ's Beetle Eater

If you use screened bottom boards, AJ's Beetle Eater slides underneath and catches beetles that fall through the screen (or get chased down by bees). It's essentially an oil tray designed to fit standard bottom board dimensions.

Why it works:

• Catches beetles without taking up frame space
• Easy to pull out, clean, and refill without opening the hive
• Beetles that escape bees naturally move downward

Important: Only works with screened bottom boards. If you have solid bottom boards, this isn't an option.

Soil Treatments: Breaking the Lifecycle

Trapping adults is only half the battle. Remember, beetle larvae drop from hives to pupate in the soil. Treating the ground around your hives can break this lifecycle.

GardStar (Permethrin): A soil drench applied in a 2-foot radius around hive stands. Kills larvae as they enter the soil to pupate. Follow label directions carefully—permethrin is toxic to bees if they contact it directly, so apply when bees aren't foraging on the ground (early morning or evening).

Beneficial nematodes: A biological control option. Steinernema and Heterorhabditis species attack beetle larvae in soil. Apply when soil is moist and temperatures are 60-90°F. Less effective than chemical drenches but safer for the environment.

Site management: Beetles prefer moist, sandy soil for pupation. Placing hives on concrete, gravel, or well-drained areas reduces beetle reproduction even without chemical treatment.

Trap Comparison Chart

Prevention: The Real Solution

Traps help, but the most effective beetle control is a strong, well-managed colony. Here's what actually prevents beetle problems:

Practical prevention:

• Don't give weak colonies extra space. A nuc doesn't need two deeps. Match equipment to colony size.
• Keep hives in full sun. Beetles prefer shade. Hot hives are less hospitable.
• Reduce entrances on weak colonies. Fewer entry points = easier to defend.
• Don't leave harvested frames exposed. Empty honey supers are beetle nurseries.
• Extract honey quickly. The longer frames sit in the honey house, the more time beetles have to find them.
• Freeze frames before storage. Kills any eggs or larvae.

Regional reality: If you're in the Deep South (Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi), beetles are a constant battle from April through October. Northern beekeepers may see few or none. Adjust your management intensity accordingly.