How to Set Up Bait Hives to Catch Free Swarms

What Is a Bait Hive?

A bait hive (also called a swarm trap) is simply a container designed to attract and capture wild honeybee swarms. When a colony swarms, scout bees search for a new home—and your bait hive is positioned to look like the perfect real estate.

Think of it as fishing for bees. You're not chasing them down; you're creating an irresistible opportunity and waiting for them to move in.

Bait hives can be as simple as a cardboard box with old comb inside, or as sophisticated as a purpose-built trap with landing boards and ventilation. The bees don't care about aesthetics—they care about cavity size, entrance location, and that magical smell of "home."

Why Catch Swarms Instead of Buying Bees?

There are compelling reasons to add swarm trapping to your beekeeping toolkit:

The Benefits of Swarm Catching

1. Free bees. A 3-pound package costs $150-200. A caught swarm costs you nothing but time and a few supplies.
2. Local genetics. Swarms from your area are already adapted to your climate, pests, and forage. They've survived without your help.
3. Strong colonies. Swarms are bees at their peak—full of young workers, a proven queen, and high motivation to build.
4. Expansion without expense. Growing your apiary through swarm catching means you're not limited by your budget.
5. Conservation. Caught swarms might otherwise end up in someone's wall or be exterminated. You're giving them a good home.

The downside? It requires patience and there's no guarantee. You might catch five swarms in a season, or none. But even one catch pays for your entire setup many times over.

What You'll Need

You don't need fancy equipment. Here's what actually matters:

The Container

Research by Dr. Thomas Seeley at Cornell University found that swarms strongly prefer cavities around 40 liters (about 10 gallons). This is roughly the volume of a single deep Langstroth hive body.

Good options include:

Deep Langstroth box – Ideal because caught swarms transfer directly to your hive system
5-frame nuc box – Slightly smaller but highly portable
Purpose-built swarm traps – Lightweight, weather-resistant, designed for tree mounting
Plywood box – Build your own for under $20

Pro tip: If using a Langstroth box, you only need 5 frames. Leave the rest empty—bees prefer some open space to cluster.

Essential Supplies

Old brood comb – The single most effective attractant (more on this below)
Lemongrass essential oil – Mimics the queen's Nasonov pheromone
Ratchet straps – For securing to trees
Entrance reducer – A 1-inch diameter hole is ideal
Screen or solid bottom board – Prevents the bees from absconding downward

Total investment for your first bait hive: $30-80 depending on what equipment you already have. You can easily find swarm traps on Amazon → for around $40-60 if you prefer something ready to hang.

Choosing the Perfect Location

Location is everything. Scout bees evaluate dozens of potential sites before the swarm commits. Here's what they're looking for:

Height

Seeley's research showed swarms prefer cavities 10-15 feet off the ground. Ground-level traps can work, but elevated placement dramatically increases your catch rate. This mimics natural tree cavities where bees have lived for millions of years.

Visibility

Place your trap where scout bees can find it. Edges work well—think treelines at the border of fields, openings in woodlots, or prominent trees that stand out from their surroundings. Bees navigate by landmarks.

Orientation

Face the entrance south or southeast in the Northern Hemisphere. This gives the colony morning sun and protection from prevailing winds. Avoid full afternoon sun, which can overheat the trap.

Proximity to Other Bees

Setting traps within 1-2 miles of known apiaries or feral colonies increases your chances significantly. Swarms don't travel far—most settle within a mile of their original hive.

Best Locations at a Glance

✓ Tree at forest edge, 12-15 feet up
✓ Corner of a barn or outbuilding (with permission)
✓ Near flowering trees (especially in spring)
✓ Fence line between agricultural fields
✗ Deep shade (too cool)
✗ Areas heavily sprayed with pesticides

Setting Up Your Bait Hive

Here's a step-by-step process for deploying your trap:

1

Prepare the box

Add 4-5 frames with foundation or drawn comb. Include at least one frame of old, dark brood comb if you have it—this is your secret weapon. The scent of propolis and old brood is irresistible to scouts.

2

Reduce the entrance

A single entrance hole of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter is ideal. Bees prefer small, defensible openings. Some beekeepers drill a single hole in the front; others use an entrance reducer on a standard box.

3

Apply lure

Add 3-5 drops of lemongrass oil to a cotton ball inside the trap, or rub the commercial swarm lure around the entrance. Refresh monthly.

4

Secure in place

Use ratchet straps to mount the trap firmly to a tree or post. It needs to be stable—wind shouldn't rock it. Make sure you can still access it for checks and retrieval.

5

Wait and observe

Check your trap weekly during swarm season. Look for scout bee activity at the entrance—if you see bees coming and going, a swarm may be evaluating the site.

Using Swarm Lures Effectively

The right attractants can dramatically increase your success rate. Here's what works:

Old Brood Comb (The Best Attractant)

Nothing beats the smell of a used beehive. Old, dark brood comb contains propolis, beeswax, and trace pheromones that signal "bees lived here successfully." Even a single frame of old comb increases catch rates significantly.

If you don't have old comb, ask a local beekeeper—most are happy to give away damaged or retired frames.

Lemongrass Essential Oil

Lemongrass oil contains citral and geraniol—compounds nearly identical to the Nasonov pheromone that worker bees use to signal "home is here." Apply 3-5 drops inside the trap on a cotton ball or wooden skewer.

Get pure lemongrass essential oil—avoid fragrance oils or blends. Find lemongrass oil on Amazon →

Commercial Swarm Lures

Products like Swarm Commander or Honey-B-Healthy contain synthetic Nasonov pheromone and other attractants. They work well and last longer than lemongrass oil alone. Many beekeepers use both together.

What Doesn't Work

Skip the honey—it attracts ants and can spread disease between colonies. Bees aren't attracted to honey smell for nesting sites. Sugar syrup is similarly ineffective as a lure (though you may feed a caught swarm later).

Monitoring Your Traps

Swarm season runs roughly mid-March through June in most of the U.S. (varies by region). During this window, check your traps at least weekly.

Signs of Scout Activity

Before a swarm moves in, scout bees investigate the site for several days. You might see:

A few bees hovering near and entering the trap
Scouts walking around the entrance, measuring it with their bodies
Activity that increases over 1-3 days

Signs a Swarm Has Moved In

When a swarm commits, you'll know:

Heavy bee traffic at the entrance (dozens or hundreds of bees)
Bees bringing in pollen (yellow/orange balls on their legs)
Guard bees at the entrance
Loud buzzing if you put your ear to the box

When to Act

Once a swarm moves in, wait 3-7 days before transferring them. This gives them time to start building comb and commit to the location. Moving too quickly can cause absconding.

Transferring a Caught Swarm

Congratulations—you've caught free bees! Here's how to move them into your permanent hive:

Best Time to Transfer

Move the trap at dusk or dawn when most bees are inside. Seal the entrance temporarily with foam or screen, secure the trap, and transport to your apiary.

If You Used a Standard Langstroth Box

This is the easiest transfer—just place the box on your hive stand and add equipment. The bees are already home! Add more frames, a second box when needed, and manage as normal.

If You Used a Swarm Trap or Nuc Box

Transfer frames directly into your hive body. Move frames gently, keeping them in the same order. Look for the queen—but don't panic if you don't see her. She's there.

Important: After transferring, leave the original trap location empty for a few days. Foragers returning to the old site will eventually find their way to your apiary if the trap was nearby.

First Week Care

Feed a newly hived swarm with 1:1 sugar syrup to encourage them to stay and build. (See our guide to feeding bees.) Check for eggs within 7-10 days to confirm the queen is laying.

Troubleshooting Empty Traps

No luck? Consider these adjustments:

No scouts at all

Try moving the trap to a more visible location, higher up, or closer to known bee populations. Refresh your lure.

Scouts visit but never commit

Your trap might be competing with better options nearby. Add old brood comb if you haven't already—this often tips the balance.

Wax moths or ants move in

This can deter scout bees. Clean the trap, freeze any old comb for 48 hours before reusing, and apply a barrier (like Tanglefoot) to the mounting straps.

Trap caught a swarm but they left

This is called absconding. It usually means the cavity wasn't right (too small, too exposed) or something disturbed them. Don't chase—reset the trap and try again.

Final Thoughts

Bait hives are one of beekeeping's best-kept secrets. For the cost of a few supplies and some patience, you can grow your apiary with free, survivor-stock bees that have already proven they can make it in your area.

Start with one or two traps your first year. Learn what works in your specific area. Many experienced beekeepers run 10-20 traps during swarm season and catch multiple colonies annually.

Even if you don't catch a swarm this year, you'll learn about bee behavior and scouting patterns—knowledge that makes you a better beekeeper overall.

Key Takeaways

In This Guide